Taiwan a friendly, vibrant island nation that feels familiar – Toronto Sun Feedzy

 

Taiwan is a modern country that feels both foreign and familiar.

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This democratic island nation is half the size of New Brunswick, with a population of 23.3 million. For its size, it punches far above its weight when it comes to adventure or relaxation.

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It’s a land of friendly people, great food, endless coastline, rugged mountains, efficient trains with clean stations, well-appointed hotels, modern cities with busy streets, calming laneways, temples and more.

It’s a bit of a haul to get there. Thankfully the premium economy offered by EVA Airways makes the journey easy. The seat that will be your home for more than 15 hours feels welcoming, like a narrow sofa chair with generous legroom. You will be set up for the arrival at Taiwan Taoyuan Int’l Airport.

Start your adventure with relaxing high speed train ride (THSR) to the city of Tainan in Taiwan’s southwest. The smooth and quiet speed train goes up to 300 km/h. It’s comfortable and offers great views of the towns and lush green countryside along the way.

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Tainan 

Tainan, is a modern, walkable city with its past on display.

When it comes to fine dining, menus are overrated. Who better to decide what’s good to eat than a chef? This idea is wonderfully articulated at Zhu Xin Ju restaurant, around since 2015, in a 147-year-old building on a quiet laneway. Trust in the chef is rewarded with a memorable, traditional and high-end culinary journey spanning nine courses. The menu varies and Reservations are required.

After dinner, check out the nighttime vibes and atmosphere of the pedestrian-friendly Shennong Street. The softly-illuminated laneway makes for a relaxing stroll with restaurants and shops, and it’s great for people watching.

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For a free elevated city view, take the art deco elevator to the rooftop of the Hayashi Department Store where you will find a Shintoist Shrine and some historical remnants of Second World War bombings. History, religion, retail and urban views – all in one. Opened in 1932, at five-stories high, entering it feels like stepping back in time in the best possible way. Products are thoughtfully displayed, and the staff is friendly and attentive.

Entrance to pedestrian-friendly Shennong Street in Tainan, Taiwan on Friday, May 26, 2023. Photo by Ernest Doroszuk /Toronto Sun/Postmedia Network

Fo Guang Shan Buddha Museum

To learn and witness spiritual devotion or just to relax in a calm place, head to the Fo Guang Shan Buddha Museum. Set aside some time to enjoy the art and informative exhibits, and listen to the recorded monks’ chants as you walk around the 100-hectare complex. Pagodas on either side lead to the Fo Guang Big Buddha towering 108-meters high, the tallest sitting bronze Buddha statue in Asia.

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Also on display is the Buddha’s tooth relic. It’s believed to be one of three in the world. The relic is encased in a reliquary made of two layers of bulbous crystal and is not usually seen. Save this part of the experience to your mind, as photography is not allowed.

Lungshan Temple in Taipei City, Taiwan on Tuesday, May 30, 2023. This Buddhist temple was built in 1740, during Qing Dynasty. Due to natural disaster and man-made damages, the temple was restored several times. Photo by Ernest Doroszuk /Toronto Sun/Postmedia Network

Kaohsiung City

Modern and bustling Kaohsiung City also has a vibrant nightlife along the Love River. A lively place to come in as a group and order a wide variety of shared plates is the Tokyo Sakaba. Too many great food options to commit to one dish. Refreshing Taiwan Beer is poured by hostesses with branded outfits. After dinner, turn right at the Love River, and take a gondola cruise. The brief ride offers a relaxing time along the water while being serenaded with karaoke by the captain.

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Heading Southeast

Next stop, the southeast coast. From Kaohsiung Railway station, the comfortable and modern train will take you on a three-hour train ride to Fenglin with cinematic views. The train makes its way through the Huadong Rift Valley, the southern area between the Central and Coastal Mountain ranges.

Looking west from the train window, the passenger is treated to a relaxing visual theatre of a green countryside with narrow, raised roads cutting through vivid green rice fields on the west side and blue waters and crashing waves of the Pacific Ocean in the east. The traveler with extra days to spare might be tempted to disembark at the next station and explore. Maybe the cyclists visible at the station in Kaohsiung City had the same idea?

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The mountain view from the CHU Resort in Hualien County, Taiwan on Sunday, May 28, 2023. Photo by Ernest Doroszuk /Toronto Sun/Postmedia Network

CHU Resort

Set among the stunning Central Mountain Range along the Shoufeng River, surrounded by palm trees, is the well-appointed CHU Resort, located south of Hualien in Fenglin Township. The resort is a destination and a relaxing retreat. There is yoga, and several large and private hot spring pools.

Just outside the resort, the desolate rural roads feel like a world away. Offering rural greenery and mountain views that can be explored on bikes provided to guests. The extensive and local-inspired breakfast buffet will have to wait, as June beckons an early-morning ride before the sun hits too hard.

A sample of the breakfast buffett at CHU Resort in Hualien County, Taiwan on Sunday, May 28, 2023. Photo by Ernest Doroszuk /Toronto Sun/Postmedia Network

Taroko National Park

Taroko Gorge at Taroko National Park near Hualien is a must-see iconic highlight of Taiwan. The winding road cuts through the sheer marble canyons along the Liwu River.

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The best way to see it is to hire a driver, take in the views, and stop at all the viewpoints along the way. For some sweeping views, check out the Buluowan Suspension Bridge. At 196-metres in length, hanging 152-metres above the Liwu Valley, it is the longest and highest bridge in Taroko National Park.

Taroko Gorge at Taroko National Park near Hualien in Taiwan on Monday, May 29, 2023. Photo by Ernest Doroszuk /Toronto Sun/Postmedia Network

You can head to The Roof of Truku restaurant for a local and memorable dining experience. The Truku are among many of Taiwan’s indigenous people. The Hunter’s set menu is particularly enticing with boar (or free-range chicken), local produce, sticky rice cooked in bamboo salad and fruit, all laid out on a large Asian taro Leaf. The meal comes with a shot of a local, unique and delicious restaurant-made millet wine, served in a bamboo cup. Grab a bottle to go – or three!

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When it’s time to head to Taiwan’s capital Taipei, the journey is also a destination along the cliffside Provincial Highway 9. For an ideal mix of cliffs, sea and sky, take a break for view of the ocean and the 1000-metre high Qingshui Cliff.

Qingshui Cliff as seen from a stop along Highway 9 on the east coast of Taiwan on Monday, May 29, 2023. Photo by Ernest Doroszuk /Toronto Sun/Postmedia Network

Taipei

The Greater Taipei is home to around seven million people, but if you know where to look, there are areas that are urban while still allowing some elbow room.

The covered Herbal Lane (aka Herb Lane) offers a shaded break, in what has been a market since the Qing dynasty. The small market offers an extensive and concentrated display of various herbs within a covered laneway. The sizeable aloe hanging upside down offers a hint of the drinks that await upon exiting the market onto the busy Xichang St. To the right is a storefront offering a variety of herbal refreshments. Cuban oregano juice, dandelion juice, houseleek juice, intriguing to be sure, but I noticed the aloe juice.

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The aloe drink, served in a paper cup, is not too sweet and infinitely refreshing. It stands out as something to look forward to on a return visit. I promptly ordered another.

Bryan Wang, 34, owner of the Healing Herbar makes a drink out of whiskey, herbal tea and honey in Taipei City, Taiwan on Tuesday, May 30, 2023. Photo by Ernest Doroszuk /Toronto Sun/Postmedia Network

The local herbal experience continues inside the smartly designed shop at the Healing Herbar run by herbalist Bryan Wang, the third generation in this family tradition. A brief questionnaire and chat, and Wang, 34, will mix up a customized tea. He wants to draw a younger crowd, adjusting the recipes to be more palatable.

Even if you don’t believe in the medicinal value of customized herbal tea, you will believe in the off-menu offering that is shaken, not stirred.  Once the cocktail shaker comes out, you realize this herbalist is embracing the modern world. The mixture of whiskey, herbal tea and honey is smooth and satisfying.

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Aloe plants on display at Herbal Lane (aka Herb Lane) in Taipei City, Taiwan on Tuesday, May 30, 2023. Photo by Ernest Doroszuk /Toronto Sun/Postmedia Network

As evening approaches, the walkable Dihua St. around the Dadaocheng area is a great place to mix retail therapy and authentic urban exploration. The cafes, tea houses, dried goods, herbal medicine, chic shops and small galleries are easy to wander in and out of. Staff are friendly, no hassle or pressure to buy. A solid option for a dinner where the vibe is relaxing and the cuisine tilts towards the higher end is Fleisch Café. The cream risotto, made with sea urchin, is a bold orange. Topped with scallops and mullet roe, it satisfies the eyes and palette.

Cream risotto, made with sea urchin is a bold orange, topped with scallops and mullet roe at Fleisch Café, along Dihua St. in Dadaocheng area Taipei City, Taiwan on Tuesday, May 30, 2023. Photo by Ernest Doroszuk /Toronto Sun/Postmedia Network

ACCOMODATIONS

Tainan:

The Place Tainan

Kaohsiung City:

Hotel Dua 

Fenglin Township, Hualien County:

CHU Resort

Yilan:

The Westin Yilan Resort

Taipei:

Palais de Chine Hotel

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